Surf Chickens

So the thing about having summer is that waves suck pretty bad most days. Today was not to disappoint that observation. I sat on the beach with my dad, my brother, and the kids. I watched the surf, meager by most Narcore Self Righteous standards, come rolling in. There were 5 people out floating like blue fishing bobbers. When a set did grace it's presents they were too far away. After 2 peanut butter sandwiches, a sand castle, 12 ounces of pepsi, a big hole, and some sand in the mouth, I had seen enough meagerness and unzipped my wetsuit bag.
I wrestle the neoprene. I am watching the wind creep onshore and the waves break on the dry sand at a height that make me want to just snap my fins to appease my paranoia. I don't. After Straining my groing and armpits I am coverd black and heating up in the sun rapidly. I am glad I have my fish. As I get closer to the water I am scanning the beach wondering where the best bowl is. I laugh that I am even dare to cherry pick horse shit. I settle on sitting next to a blue fishing bobber. I catch a wave that is 1 foot. I catch another. I keep falling in 6 inches of water. I wonder which bone will break before my fins do. I get a break an catch the wave that barrells. I get out an laugh that I was riding that crap.